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An Ancient Eco Lodge
Located very close to the town of St. Katherine, yet totally
separated from it by a granite ridge, it offers a quiet and
easy get away. The garden is in a secluded granite basin
surrounded by many look-out points offering magnificent
views. The peak of Mt. Sinai on one side and the chapel
of St. John Climacos on the other are clearly visible.
El Freish is a very good example of the unique Jabaleya
gardening and building traditions going back to early
Byzantine times and the natural characteristics of the
Sinai high mountains. It is an ideal place for either
shorter visits, a relaxing holiday or as a base to explore
the area and other garden retreats.
There are date palms in the garden, pomegranates,
almonds, olives, fig, organic vegetables and herbs, as well
as two Bedouin tents, shady sitting places, a number of
ancient stone huts, hot shower and composting toilets.
The landscape is amazing and there are many ancient
features from old wells and irrigation channels to shelters under boulders and walled up caves.
St. Katherine, South Sinai Egypt
info@el-freish.com
Mobile: 010 301 6286
010 688 0820
Fax: 069 3470042
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Nature walks and hikes of different difficulty, fit in an afternoon or a full day. Along the way you will have a glimpse into the unique Jabaleya gardening traditions and Bedouin culture. A traditional Bedouin meal, including bread made in or over the open fire served with locally grown organic salad greens and herbs, will be prepared at el Freish garden retreat, where all walks and hikes finish. You will have some time to relax in the garden or explore its surroundings before making the short way back to town.
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Retreat Holidays and
Garden Tours
Baraka-Gardens offers Retreat Holidays in the Sinai
mountains, in beautiful Bedouin organic gardens with
restored ancient stone buildings, functioning as
mini-ecolodges. The retreats are simple but adequate,
built mostly using traditional and natural techniques and
materials, and are located in spectacular settings.
The Garden Tours are designed to show you some or all
of the garden retreats in the Sinai high mountains along
with other sights and places of interest. The pace is easy,
giving you enough time to relax, discover the area and see
other gardens. Camels carry your luggage, the supplies
and equipment needed, all you have to carry is your small
personal belongings.
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Jabaleya Gardening Traditions
There is a very unique gardening tradition in the Sinai High Mountains which goes back to Byzantine times. Most Bedouin groups are pastoralist people not involved in agriculture, but the Jabaleya tribe, as an exception, has been practicing orchard gardening for around 1400 years. The Jabaleya have been in contact with Byzantine monks since settling in the 6th century A.D. and received seeds and adopted techniques from them. The Jabaleya relied on both agriculture and animal husbandry and were migrating between higher and lower grounds according to season.
The high mountain region, cultivated between 1400 and 2400 meters, has 4 to 10 times more precipitation then the rest of the Sinai desert and the red granite mountain base holds the water. In the wadis – valleys of dry riverbeds – and the farshes – granite basins usually found right below several peaks – there is enough soil and water to support small orchards and gardens. The gardens – called either bustan or karm – were built in the water course and had to be protected from regular flash floods by massive stone walls, and were designed to let water pass through holes in the wall and retain the soil.
Most of the Sinai high mountain region is exposed red granite, one of the oldest rock formation in the World at 600 million years, and it is criss-crossed with lines of different colour: dykes – called jidda – were formed where the granite cracked and porous lava rock poured in. Water from rain and snow running off the granite surfaces penetrates the soft lava rock and gathers at low points of dykes. Basins with dykes cutting through them collect water from a large area and are an excellent place to build wells and a garden. The water table was often raised further with small dams closing off water drainage ways. Wells further away were connected to the garden by channels made of stones.
Buildings were always built away from the water course and often located at elevated points. There are usually a number of buildings spread around: some were built inside the garden or next to the garden wall, others a bit further away. They are constructed of rocks and stones, often incorporating natural features such as caves or big boulders, and were used as rooms, store rooms and wind shelters. Buildings for winter were made with earth for binding rocks and a roof from canes or palm leaves was constructed, supported by logs and covered with sand. There are often many small windows to make rooms well ventilated and cool in summer, and many shelves were built in the stone walls adding a beautiful character.
El Fresh – meaning little basin – is also called Farsh Abu Aluan, the basin of the Aluan family. The sole garden is located in a secluded basin, totally cut off from the outside world, yet close to the village and very easy to reach. It is an oasis in a granite arena, surrounded by high peaks and a lunar landscape. In the garden, built in the only drainage way of the basin and protected from floods by a massive stone wall, there are two wells, an old rock water pool for irrigation and recreational use, shady fruit trees, date palms and an ancient stone house. There are two more stone huts outside the garden on ridges, with spectacular views down to a long valley with a river of green gardens on one side and the distant peak of Mt. Sinai on the other. There are also a number of stone shelters under boulders, an old store room in a walled up cave and an ancient stone irrigation system connecting a distant well to the garden.
El Freish was built as a perfect eco lodge, using locally available materials and based on age old traditions and extensive knowledge of the environment. It was planned to be very water efficient to sustain an orchard and garden, provide water for animals and support a family. Organic produce is still grown locally and used for cooking, providing a more nutritious diet while helping to cut down on the amount of waste. There is no electricity only candles, campfire and the stars. It only needed little improvements in line with these traditions: adequate cooking facilities, showers and composting toilets. The ancient stone building, designed in a practical way with full of characters, is a master piece of true workmanship and the strucure remains unchanged. Only the roof, windows and doors will be repaired and the two guest rooms furnished. Two traditional Bedouin tents are erected, one for guests staying overnight, the other, in another area of the garden, serving as the maqad, the meeting place. There are also a number of sitting places, called arisha, covered with cane and palm leaves. Fire wood, organized through the National Park, is not coming from protected areas. Water from kitchen and showers are reused to irrigate cane and trees. Local handcrafts are used to furnish the interiors.
El Freish reveals a different world and people are encouraged to venture even further. It is a very convenient starting point to visit and discover the rest of the mountains. There are many other gardens in the high mountains, each with its own individual character, and they all are essentially small eco lodges offering beautiful nature retreats. They belong to different families and the initiative, on a higher level, is aimed at promoting the whole region and bringing benefit to the larger community. Garden tours are organized through Baraka-Gardens, showing visitors the best gardens with the possibility of staying at any of them. Furthermore work with camels and as a guide is allocated according to a tribal rotating system, called el dor, to make sure everybody can have a job. Operations are arranged through the Mountain Tours Office (Maktab Rahalat Gabaleya), a tourist company registered with Egyptian authorities since 1987 and run by the office of Sheikh Mousa.
The aim of the initiative is to bring work to garden owners and encourage people to further the upkeep of their gardens, while at the same time providing quiet retreats for those who want to experience the slow pace of life of the Bedouin and the silence and magic of the mountains and the desert.
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© 2008 El Freish Mountain Garden Retreat: an ancient eco lodge. |
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